Which Way Should Laminate Flooring Run
Which Way Should Laminate Flooring Run – How to lay laminate continuously in a door and without amateur looking holes! Lay laminate through doors where two rooms meet, get them neatly around the doorposts
During the floor installation, the perfect laying of laminate in a door is not so difficult if you start by laying the floorboards near the wall that has the door in it. But if the last few planks of your laminate floor are to be laid under the door jambs or through the door trim or door frame, it seems impossible to get them in without leaving visible gaps!
Which Way Should Laminate Flooring Run
Because you are a pro and do the job right, you will install the architraves and then fix the baseboards for a seamless installation (if the job is a renovation or renovation, carefully remove the existing ones so that they can be redone afterwards ).
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In case you didn’t see it on the previous page and unless you are laying a continuous laminate floor, the sketch below highlights how the threshold (covering the connection between the two rooms) should end up away from the door – it is tight in between the door posts & also centered under the door.
I have seen DIY flooring attempts that have finished differently to this meaning when the door is closed, you can see the hallway carpet in the bedroom or vice versa for example!
By ensuring that the threshold is hidden when the door is in the closed position, you can prevent this. When the floor is finished, you should not be able to close the door and see the floor covering that is in the next room!
If you followed my step by step installation guide, you will cut door jambs/linings in preparation before you start.
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The biggest hurdle or question I’ve been asked is “how do you get the tongue of the floorboard to click in
Lift the laminate floor high enough to slide and ‘click’ it into the previous board groove – if it’s tight under the door jamb!?”
It is possible, and can also be easy if you take advantage of the 10 mm expansion gap you have to leave around the perimeter of the room. It is no coincidence that your expansion hole is 10mm, and your tongue and groove are usually also 10mm (almost always the case on laminate floors, hardwood floors and engineered floor boards as well).
Floor boards are designed like this purposefully. It means that since you need to leave a 10mm expansion hole between the floorboard and the wall, you can slide the floorboard into that hole so that it is tight against the wall, 10mm past its final position (which allows for to fall flat). Then, if you slide it back 10mm by inserting the tongue into the groove and closing the join to the other board, you will insert the 10mm expansion gap between the board and the wall/frame.
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For snapping boards instead of traditional tongue and groove, you don’t have to lift the board to snap it into position if you use a block plane to remove the ridge on the top of the tongue that stops it from coming apart comes, as in the picture below. All this does is change the board from a click system to a ‘normal’ tongue and groove setup which is perfectly OK as long as you use
Important: do not remove the tongue! Just the raised ridge on top of it that holds the join together. Once you have removed the ridge, test with an off-cut that it slides in and out OK on another off-cut before trying to install it.
If you don’t have a block/smooth plane, you can use a sharp chisel or Stanley knife to carefully remove the ridge instead.
In this first example, I had to work out how to lay continuous laminate flooring in a door, as the same floor was in the hallway and the downstairs toilet (WC).
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Not only that, the plinth blocks are already installed and decorated and it also makes it a bit more difficult.
As both the hallway and the bathroom were quite small, I didn’t need to have a threshold at the door. When I lay a floor in two larger rooms, I always use a threshold because you need that expansion hole.
All I had to do was lay out the position of the doorpost and plinth blocks on the next floorboard and add 7-8mm all the way around the perimeter so there wouldn’t be a gap when I put it under the door frame slide, architrave and plinth block.
Sometimes to make my job easier, I can make a bigger expansion hole by cutting out a bit more of the door trim or plaster, where it won’t be visible later (usually because it’s covered by a plinth or architrave for example).
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Slide the board under the frame until it falls flat and then close the join up.
Because I had shaved off the edge of my tongue. It slid over it very easily. Just make sure you put plenty of wood glue on the join.
In this next example, I laid laminate in a door of an old house where I had installed a kitchen.
This is probably a slightly harder example of getting laminate in a door clean, but was still possible and looked great when it was finished.
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If I started to lay the floor on this part of the room I would have used one long board for this section. But it went differently;
Since this was not continuous like the first example, step one of laying laminate in a door like this is to mark where the door threshold will be (under the center of the door when it is in the closed position is). Look at the bottom of the door frame, you will be able to tell where the floor should stop before passing over it. Transfer this to the door trim. Mark an expansion gap of 10 mm back from this point.
The photo below is terrible quality – sorry. And the door frame is very old and battered from years of traffic and several layers of paint.
You can roughly see that the floor stops about 80-90mm in front of the door and needs to go a bit past it so it’s halfway under it. There is not much room to maneuver.
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However, the only way in this case was to join the boards. The first board would be installed to the left, cut to the length of the same hole between the door jambs. I put the first one in the groove, slid it right over to the left so there was room to get the second one in flat and then the first one back to it.
Cut the first piece to fit leaving the expansion gap and again plan some of the ridge off the top of the tongue to reduce the friction that stops it clicking in and free from left to right to slide You still want to hold it, just slide left and right more freely.
The way I choose the first bit to put in is to figure out which board I can slide the furthest so it’s out of the way of the next one. You can see that I cut the bottom of the door trim just out of the way as before (only where it won’t show when the plinth and architrave are back on), and I even removed a bit of the plaster I can also move the board too far to the left. Again, the plaster at the bottom is later covered with the plinth.
Put the first board in dry, and put it exactly where it needs to finish. Now highlight the second board. It should fit so there are no gaps, will slide under the door trim and there will still be a 10mm expansion hole. This may mean cutting more door trim, running out, and/or chopping drywall or plaster underneath where it can’t be seen. Laying laminate in a door is a bit easier if, as in this case, you renew the architraves and plinths, but it is still possible if they are left up. Even if you keep the plinth and architrave, it can help to just temporarily pop them off and put them back when the floors are down.
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Provided you ca
n remove them, I always try the boards dry first to make sure they fit and then remove them, glue them both loads and slide them back in.
Slide the first board back to the second and close the hole up. This creates the expansion hole on the left corner as the same time.
As you can see below (just about the pictures are crap!), both last floorboards are placed under the door jambs. There is a 10mm expansion hole between the floor and the tiles in the next room and there is an expansion hole between the boards and the walls. Home Improvement
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