Home Gardening Market

Home Gardening Market – I feel that gardening books don’t explain or talk about home garden planning enough. I guess this is due to the changing landscape, so no garden plot is the same and therefore difficult to replicate the design of the garden.

Another reason may be that most garden design is based on personal preference and is very subjective. For example, some people find success with a permaculture layout where plants are single but work together as a whole, while others are best suited to a more formal layout. And then there’s the battle between using a raised bed and using rows.

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Despite the differences in layout preferences, I believe there are some universal truths when it comes to the effectiveness of a year-round garden and lessons to be learned from seasoned gardeners.

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One example of garden planning that works comes from organic market gardeners (JM Fortier, Eliot Coleman, etc.). They have developed very streamlined layouts because they are working with a large garden. Instead of raised beds, they use rows. I plan to implement some of these placement ideas in my own garden because in a larger garden they reduce the time required for maintenance and increase yield. That being said, the decision is ultimately up to you. Here are some things to consider when choosing between raised beds and rows.

I actually made rows on my raised tree bed to make it easy to pick strawberries in a wide bed

While it’s a personal decision as to what type of garden bed you use, practicality is a strong argument against using raised beds in a garden larger than 2,000 square feet. The cost and labor required to create raised beds in such a large garden can be prohibitive.

Our first garden in Arkansas. 2009. By the way, plastic-lined beds are the worst!

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In an effort to keep my garden tidy, I did a combination of half raised beds and half rows (albeit quite random) because I didn’t want the kids stepping on the beds. Rows help meet my needs for crops that take up space.

And yet the layout I have today would not be my ideal garden layout. I’ve learned a few things about what works best for my year-round garden, and I’ll take you through where I was 12 years ago to my current garden.

When I started my first garden in Arkansas, I had a small 200 square foot garden. It was a few raised beds and I grew the basics – tomatoes, cucumbers and lettuce with a few strawberry and raspberry plants. Because of the small size, the layout of the garden was not as critical.

In our next and current house, I started another small garden. It had four 4×10 raised beds with 15 inches between them. It worked well too. But when I tried to grow a pumpkin or sometimes a squash, it completely took over the beds and paths.

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Over the years we cleared a quarter acre lot near the house and planted another garden,   40×80 feet and fenced. I have created the front as a vegetable garden in a formal design, again using raised beds, and the back of the garden will consist of fruit trees, berries and some raised rows.

As we increased in size, layout suddenly played a critical role in the productivity of both the garden and the gardener.

When I designed my large garden, I focused on creating a beautiful design. ​​​​​​While I had functionality in mind and enjoyed raised beds in my previous gardens, they have proven to be very limited in my current garden. I wanted to try new design ideas and I couldn’t change the layout.

The first time I really encountered the problem of raised beds was when I started doing a large fall and winter garden. I used low tunnel frames covered with row covers over the existing beds. Since

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The raised beds come in a variety of sizes (3, 4, and 9 feet wide and 9, 10, and 15 feet long), it has become difficult to use row covers several years in a row because they are all cut to different sizes.

And now that brings me to tip #1 for creating a year-round garden layout.

Year Round Garden Tip #1: Make all the beds the same size or you can divide them into beds of the same size. This includes length and width.

Using one size garden bed is the key to being able to simplify the process and save a lot of money when using row covers and plastic to cover your beds. If you have, for example, all 3′ by 9′ raised beds, all the row covers and season extension tools can be used universally on any bed. Or, if you need a larger area for vegetables, I would create a 6 by 9 foot bed and you could divide your rows into two separate areas (see photo below), both 3 x 9 feet, and still use the universal size.

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Year Round Garden Tip #2: Don’t make beds wider than 48 inches, 30-36 inches is ideal.

I know I mentioned in the paragraph above that you can make wider beds  and split them in two using row covers. However, this is not ideal because you cannot easily access all areas. I have some 9′ x 9’s that I have planned for place crops and I need to put a board in the middle to have access to all areas of this raised bed.

If you have a small enough garden and decide that raised beds are still fine for you, I would go with a 36″ wide raised bed. I have had many beds of different widths and 3 feet wide is my favorite.

Why 30 inches? This is a common width used by gardeners (I will mention them again because they have a long track record of effectiveness). It’s easy to access the middle and sit on the bed to plant or jump over the bed without going all the way around.

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The smaller width also makes weeding easier. If you want to use any of the tools designed for gardeners, such as a wide fork or a tiller, they are made to cut through a 30-inch bed in one pass. A common row coverage size for season extension is 83 inches, which is ideal for hoops over a 30-inch bed. They also sell 10′ wide beds and they are great for larger 3′ and 4′ wide beds.

I can grow tons more food per square foot. I have the ability to change the layout because there is no frame.

As I mentioned above, the main thing is to have the same length on each bed. For raised beds, the length will be your choice. Since raised beds are best used in a small garden, keep them long. Anywhere from 4 to 16 feet is common for raised beds. If you decide to do rows, I would make them 25 or 50 feet long. Of course, this would be for a very large home garden, but it makes things so much easier because the row covers are pre-cut to these sizes.

You need both main tracks to transport garden material in wheelbarrows, and smaller tracks between individual beds. Main walkways should be at least 3 feet wide. I find my four foot wide tracks are perfect for maneuvering around the wheelbarrow.

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Side paths are the choice of gardeners. Smaller 15-inch tracks can be used for beds with compact crops such as lettuce, cabbage and root crops. You may need larger side tracks for squash, sweet potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, and more.

December 2021 Update: Since we moved to our new property, I’ve planted 30″ wide, 100′ long mounded rows.

At first I started with 18 inches between the rows, but Cameron complained that he could barely walk them, so I went to 24 inches. All in all, I really like them.

I can use all the tools gardeners use and it makes the job so much easier! My garden is about 14,000 square feet. After years of success and wonderful self-sufficiency, some farmers are exploring ways to sell their crops. A market garden, a small-scale production of produce that is usually sold directly to
customers, is one way to do this.

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The term “market garden” has a rich history, dating back to the late 18th century as a way to distinguish vendors of all sizes selling vegetables and berries from grain, dairy or fruit growers. Although agricultural historians continue to use the term in this way, today the term “garden” is more simply used to refer to a plot of land from which a farmer sold the produce rather than used it to feed his family.

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