Installing Click Lock Hardwood Flooring

Installing Click Lock Hardwood Flooring – Hardwood floors add beauty, warmth and value to your home. This video and these step-by-step instructions will show you how to install engineered hardwood floors.

Engineered hardwood floors are made from layers of solid wood compressed together, which can handle changes in moisture and humidity better than solid hardwood.

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If you decide to install engineered hardwood, there are four possible installation methods depending on the subfloor: glue, nails, staples, and floats.

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Whichever method you choose, you’ll need to prepare the subfloor by cleaning, leveling, checking, and adjusting door clearances. Read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions on conditioning time.

Before installing floating engineered hardwood floors, follow the same preparatory steps described above, including underlayment and laying shims to maintain the manufacturer-specified expansion gap.

Install the first row using wood glue on all plank ends with the tongue facing the center of the room.

When installing extra rows, work from left to right. Apply wood glue to the tongue and groove joints. The pieces are then attached, carefully folded and tapped for placement on the subfloor. Immediately wipe off any glue that has squeezed through the boards. Note that some engineered hardwood flooring products have a click-to-lock design. Unlike tongue and groove products, these require no glue for floating installation. Tip Use small pieces of painters tape randomly on each new seam to hold your piece in place as you move it. This provides extra stability to the floor while the glue dries.

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Measure the distance from the board (not the tongue) to the wall and subtract the expansion gap to know the correct cut for the last row of boards. Then, insert the last row of floorboards, taking care to leave a proper extension gap between the last piece and the wall.

Remove paint tape after 8-10 hours, but avoid high traffic and furniture placement for 24 hours.

After the new floor is finished, install the transition piece and remove the shims. Then nail the baseboards and shoe moldings to the wall, not the floor.

Pour a small amount of glue on the concrete—about the width of two or three planks—and use a trowel to scrape the glue and drips off the bucket.

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Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle and apply glue—make sure the teeth of the trowel touch the concrete. Continue gluing in small sections; you only want to work on two or three lines at a time.

Using the straightest planks, place the first row along the guides you created when preparing the subfloor, with the tongue side of the planks facing the room.

Fit the grooves of the second row to the tongues of the first row, then use a rubber mallet and wood block to tap the boards into place.

Stagger planks at least 6 inches from each end to add strength to the floor. You may need to use a circular or miter saw with a blade designed for engineered wood floors to cut the first board. When you meet a post or doorway, cut the planks to fit the sides, taking care to maintain the expansion gap. Tips Immediately remove any glue that may have been squeezed through the planks with a cleaner designed for engineered wood floors or a special floor wipe.

How To Install Engineered Hardwood Floors

When you reach the end of the floor, stop and leave enough space to comfortably exit the room without stepping on the new floor. Wait 24 hours for the glue to dry. If you need to finish installing the floor, follow the same process until you reach the last row.

Measure the distance between the wall and the plank — not the tongue — and subtract the expansion gap. Cut (or tear) the last line. If the planks are less than 1 inch wide, apply glue to the tongue of the installed planks, then use a pry bar and a piece of scrap wood to slide the last row of planks into place to protect your wall. After the new floor is finished, install the transition piece and remove the shims. The baseboards and shoe moldings are then nailed to the wall.

If you have nailed engineered hardwood floors, you will follow the same prep steps as above, including placing spacers around the perimeter of the room to maintain the manufacturer’s recommended expansion gap.

For the first row, predrill and nail with finishing nails about 1 inch from the wall at 3 to 4 inch intervals. Use a nail punch and fill the holes with wood filler.

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For the second and third rows, use a pneumatic nailer to nail every 3 to 4 inches at a 45-degree angle just above the tongue. Staples must not interfere with the tongue-and-groove fit of the add-on board. Proceed to install the floor.

Your last row or two will be stapled to face staples, as your air stapler can be difficult to maneuver in tight spaces. Pre-drill the holes and countersink the nails using a nailer. Fill the hole with matching wood filler to camouflage the markings.

After the new floor is finished, install the transition piece and remove the shims. The baseboards and shoe moldings are then nailed to the wall.

For nail-in engineered hardwood floors, follow the same subfloor preparation steps as above, including laying underlayment and placing shims around the perimeter of the room to maintain the manufacturer’s recommended expansion gap. This installation method is the same as nailing, but the fasteners and fastening tools are different. Refer to the staple installation image for guided assistance.

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For your first row, with the tongue toward the center of the room, pre-drill and nail with finishing nails about 1″ from the wall. Pre-drilled holes keep the wood from cracking and make the job easier. Then, use a nail punch to countersink the nails and fill the holes with matching wood filler. Work in 3 to 4 inch intervals along the length of the board.

For the second and third rows, use a pneumatic nail gun to drive nails at an angle above the tongue. Countersink the nails to avoid interrupting the tongue and groove engagement in subsequent rows. Proceed to install the floor. When implementing a flooring project, you need to make many decisions, among them the choice of installation system, i.e. tongue and groove or click system flooring. Often times, the decision about which system is best for your situation depends largely on various aspects of your flooring project.

Installing tongue and groove boards is a very quick and affordable way to inlay any ceiling or wall. This type of wooden floor is made of planks joined together, and each plank has a tongue and groove. In T&G parquet, the tongue is cut into one long and one short side, while the grooves appear on the remaining two sides. When installing floors, you can use three main installation methods including gluing to a suitable subfloor, recessed nails or floating installation. Also, you’ll need to fit each tongue into each groove. Having gone through the installation process, you can see that the T&G Timber Flooring System provides you with a flawless end result with a smooth and durable surface.

Lock system wood flooring, also known as lock system, has only recently been introduced to the wood flooring market. It basically consists of covering old floors (however, it should not be used on uneven wood floors or carpet). In a snap system floor, the individual boards snap together so you no longer need any other means of holding them together with glue or staples. In fact, click flooring is considered by many to be the easiest method of installing wood floors, especially if you choose to do it yourself.

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Snap (or lock) flooring is very similar to traditional tongue and groove flooring in the floating installation method. However, it is different because it has an interlocking profile on the edges – thus, the boards can be snapped or locked together. Floating floors are not anchored directly to the subfloor. Typically, click or lock flooring systems are made of laminate or engineered wood. Laminate floors look like wood, but they’re not made of wood. Suitable for any room in the home, laminate is functional and very easy to install. It is made of wood planks with a printed paper finish on top. These floors resemble wood, but are not actually a natural product. Solid wood floors are rare in click floor installation systems.

The popularity of Click flooring is mainly due to how easy it is to install, which is a considerable advantage for DIYers who want to do everything themselves without the help of a professional fitter. When installed by professionals, T&G wood floors have very low waste (sometimes as little as 5%). This is also important as it saves you money and guarantees the end result.

Choosing your preferred flooring can be a tricky job; whether it’s laminate or solid wood. But choosing the correct type of installation for each floor type has become increasingly important over time. It plays an important role in determining the lifespan of a wood floor.

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