What Direction Should You Lay Laminate Flooring
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I’m planning to install new laminate flooring in a bedroom that has two closets, and I just want to make sure I’m setting it up correctly. From what I’ve read, there are two rules for this:
What Direction Should You Lay Laminate Flooring
I am only able to follow one of these rules for this room. Please take a look at what I’m planning so far:
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Here, I have laminate along the long wall of the room, and I’m planning to use t-moldings on the closet doors so that the laminate runs along the long wall there. Is this a good way to pull it off, or is there a better way?
Not an expert but I have installed laminate in 3 rooms in my house. I go with the light (assuming you mean windows as the light source) rule for the following reasons:
Also, no matter what, I would probably recommend placing the laminate in the closets in the same direction as the main room. I think these rooms are so small that the longest wall rule doesn’t really apply and I think it would look ridiculous to have a different direction on the finish of the boards.
By clicking “Accept All Cookies”, you agree that Stack Exchange may store cookies on your device and disclose information in accordance with our Cookie Policy. How to laminate a door seamlessly and without any gaping holes! Through the door where the two rooms meet, clean them around the door
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Laying the laminate in the door during the installation of the floor is not at all difficult when you start by installing the floorboards on the wall that contains the door. But, when the last few floorboards of your laminate floor need to be placed under the door jamb or through the door lining or door frame, it seems impossible to get them in without an obvious gap. !
Because you’re a pro and doing the job right, you’re installing the architraves and fixing the skirting boards for a seamless install (if the job is a refresh or repair, be careful with the existing ones). take them out so they can fit again. later).
In case you haven’t seen it on the previous page and unless you’re having a continuous laminate floor, the sketch below highlights how the border (which covers the join between the two rooms) ends at the door. Should be – it is tight between the door and the center under the door as well.
I have seen attempts at DIY flooring that have ended differently in the sense that when the door is closed, you can see the hallway carpet in the bedroom or the other way around for example!
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By making sure the threshold is hidden when the door is in its closed position you can prevent this from happening. When the floor is finished, you shouldn’t be able to close the door and see the floor covering in the next room!
If you followed my step-by-step installation guide, you’ll need to close the door jambs/lining in preparation before you begin.
The biggest hurdle or question I get asked is, “How do you get the tongue of the floorboard to click
Raise the laminate floor high enough to slide and ‘click’ it into the groove of the front board – when it’s tight under the door hinge!?
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It is possible, and it can also be easier if you take advantage of the 10mm expansion gap you need to leave around the room. It’s no accident that your expansion gap is 10mm, and your tongue and groove are usually 10mm along (almost always the case on laminate floors, hardwood floors and engineered floorboards as well).
Floor boards are designed like this. This means that because you have to leave a 10mm expansion gap between the floorboard and the wall, you can slide the floorboard into the gap so that it is tight against the wall, the last 10mm of it. Before positioning (allowing it to lie flat). Then, when you slide it back 10mm by inserting the tongue into the groove and add the closure to the other board then you establish a 10mm expansion gap between the board and the wall/frame.
Instead of a traditional tongue and groove to click boards together, you don’t need to lift the board up to click it into position if you use a block plane to remove the ridge on top of the tongue that will hold it in place. prevents it from falling apart, like the picture below. All it does is convert the board from a one-click system to a ‘normal’ tongue and groove setup which is just fine, as long as you get used to it.
Important: Do not remove the tongue! At the top of it is only a raised triangle, which holds the knot. Once you remove the ridge, test with one offcut that it slides OK on the other offcut before attempting to install it.
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If you don’t have a block/smoothing plane you can use a sharp chisel or Stanley knife to carefully remove the ridge instead.
In this first instance I had to work out how to lay laminate flooring in a doorway as it was the same floor in the hallway and downstairs toilet (WC).
Not only that, the plinth blocks are already installed and decorated and makes it a little more difficult.
Because both the hallway and the bathroom were quite small, I didn’t need to put a limit on the door. If I’m laying a floor in two large rooms I always use the range because you need that expansion gap.
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All I had to do was fix the position of the door jamb and plinth block on the next floorboard and add 7-8mm around the outline so I could slide it under the door frame, there was no gap. won’t be and plinth blocks.
Sometimes to make my job easier, I can create a large expansion gap by pulling the door frame or plaster a bit further, where it won’t be visible later (usually because it’s covered by skirting board or architrave). . example).
Slide the board under the frame until it bottoms out and then close the join.
Because I closed the roof of the tongue it sewed really easily. Just make sure you load up on wood glue when joining.
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In this next example I was putting laminate in the door of an old house in which I installed a kitchen.
This is probably a slightly harder example of getting the laminate in the door cleanly but it was still possible and it looked great when it was finished.
If I were to start laying the floor on this part of the room, I would use a long board for this part. But it turned out differently;
Since it was not continuous like the first example, the first step in placing the laminate in the door is to mark where the door edge will be (the middle of the door when it is in the closed position). Look at the underside of the door bar, you’ll be able to tell where the floor needs to be to fit over it. Transfer it to the lining of the door. Mark the 10mm expansion gap back from this point.
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The picture below is terrible quality – sorry. And the door frame is very old and weathered from years of traffic and many coats of paint.
You can just see that the floor is stopped about 80-90mm from the door and needs to go a little further so that it is half way under it. There is not much room to maneuver.
However in this instance the only way was to join the board. The first board was installed on the left side, cut the length of the same gap between the door jambs. I put the first one in the groove, slid it from right to left, then had room to get the second one flat and then slide the first one back into it.
Cut the first piece to leave an expansion gap and then cut some of the ridge off the top of the tongue to reduce the friction that stops it from
clicking in and sliding freely from left to right. . You still want to move it, just slide left and right more freely.
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The way I choose to insert the first bit is to figure out which board I can slide the furthest forward so that it is outside the next board. You can see that I’ve cut the line under the door as before (only it won’t be seen when the skirting and architraves are pulled back) and I’ve also cut away a bit of the plaster. So I can move the board too far to the left. Again, the bottom will be covered with plaster
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