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I’m planning to install new laminate flooring in a bedroom that has two closets, and I just want to make sure I’m orienting it correctly. From what I’ve read, there are two rules for this:
Which Way Do You Lay Laminate Flooring
I can only follow one of these rules for this room. Please take a look at what I’m planning so far:
Choosing Subfloor For Hardwood, Tile And Laminate Floors
Here, I have the laminate along the longest wall in the room and I’m planning to use t-moulding on the closet doors so the laminate is on the longer walls as well. Is this a good way to put it, or is there a better way?
I’m no expert, but I have installed laminate in 3 rooms of my house. I would follow the light rule (assuming you mean the windows are the light source) for the following reasons:
Also, whatever the choice, I would probably recommend putting the laminate in the cabinets in the same direction as the main room. I think these rooms are small enough that the longer wall rule doesn’t really apply and I think it will look fun to have the boards in a different direction when they’re finished.
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How To Install Laminate Flooring On Your Own (diy)
During the installation of the floor, fitting the laminate to a door perfectly is not so difficult when you start placing the floor boards on the wall that has the door. But when the last planks of your laminate flooring need to be placed under the door jambs or through the door trim or door frame, it seems impossible to get them in without leaving a visible gap.
Since you are a professional and doing the job right, you will then install the architraves and fix the plinths for a perfect installation (if the job is a refurbishment or renovation, carefully remove the existing ones so they can be fitted). after).
In case you didn’t see it on the previous page, and unless you’re laying a continuous laminate floor, the sketch below highlights how the threshold (covering the junction between the two rooms) should end at the door step : is adjusted. between the door jambs and also central under the door.
I’ve seen attempts at DIY flooring that ended up differently to this meaning when the door is closed, you can see the hallway carpet in the bedroom or the other way around, for example!
Laminate Flooring For Basements
Make sure the threshold is hidden when the door is in its closed position, you can prevent this from happening. When the floor is finished, you shouldn’t be able to close the door and see the floor covering in the next room!
If you followed my step-by-step installation guide, you’ll need to cut the door jambs/trimmings before you begin.
The biggest stumbling block or question I get is “how do you get the tab on the floor board to click?
Lift the laminate floor up high enough to slide it in and click it into the slot in the boards above, when it’s snug under the door jamb!?”
How To Measure For Laminate Flooring
It is possible, and it can also be easy if you take advantage of the 10mm expansion space you have to leave around the perimeter of the room. It’s no coincidence that your expansion space is 10mm, and your tongue and groove is also usually 10mm (this is almost always the case with laminate floors, hardwood floors and engineered boards).
Floorboards are designed that way on purpose. It means that since you need to leave a 10mm expansion gap between the floorboard and the wall, you can slide the floorboard into that space so it’s snug against the wall, 10mm past its final position (allowing it to fall flat) . Then when you slide it back 10mm by inserting the tab into the slot and closing the joint to the other board, install the 10mm expansion gap between the board and the wall/frame.
To click the boards together instead of the traditional tongue and groove, you don’t need to lift the board into position if you use a block plane to remove the ridge on the top of the tongue that prevents it from coming off , as in the image below. All this does is change the board from a click-together system to a “normal” tongue-and-groove configuration which is perfectly fine, as long as you use
Important: don’t stick out your tongue! Only the raised ridge at the top holds the joint. Once you’ve removed the ridge, test a trim that slides in and out nicely on another trim before attempting to install it.
The Correct Direction For Laying Hardwood Floors
If you don’t have a block/smooth plane, you can use a sharp chisel or Stanley knife to carefully remove the ridge.
In this first example I had to figure out how to lay laminate flooring on a door continuously because the same floor was in the hallway and downstairs toilet (WC).
Not only that, the plinth blocks are already installed and decorated, making it a bit more complicated.
Since both the hallway and the bathroom were quite small, I didn’t need to have a threshold on the door. If I’m laying a floor in two larger rooms, I always use a threshold because you need that expansion gap.
Installing Laminate Flooring
All I had to do was set the position of the door jamb and plinth blocks to the next floor board and add 7-8mm around the outline so there was no gap once I slid it under the frame of the door, architrave and plinth block.
Sometimes, to make things easier for me, I can make a larger expansion gap by cutting a little more into the door trim or plaster from behind, where it won’t show later (usually because it will be covered by a baseboard or architrave for example).
Slide the board under the frame, until it drops, then close the joint.
Because I had planed the ridge of the tongue, it slid off very easily. Just be sure to put plenty of wood glue on the joint.
Click Lock & Snap Together Flooring: What It Is + How To Install It
In this example below, I was putting laminate on a door in an old house where I had installed a kitchen.
This is probably a slightly more difficult example of getting laminate on a door neatly, but it was still possible and looked great when finished.
If I had started laying the floor in this part of the room, I would have used a long board for this section. But it went differently;
Since this was not continuous like the first example, the first step in placing laminate on a door like this is to mark where the door sill will be (under the center of the door when in the closed position). Look at the bottom of the door jamb, you’ll be able to tell where the floor needs to stop for it to fit. Transfer this to the door trim. Mark an expansion gap of 10mm from this point.
How To Prevent & Repair Water Damage To Laminate Flooring
The image below is of poor quality – apologies. And the door frame is very old and battered from years of traffic and several coats of paint.
You can see that the floor stops about 80-90mm before the door and needs to go a bit further so it’s half way under. There is not much room for maneuver.
However, the only way in this case was to have a union in the boards. The first board was to be installed on the left, cut to the length of the same gap between the door jambs. I put the first one in the slot, slid it to the left so there was room to put the second plane in, and then slide the first one over.
Cut the first piece to fit leaving the expansion gap and re-plan part of the ridge on the top of the tongue to reduce the friction that prevents it from clicking and sliding left to right freely. You still want it to hold, just slide left and right more freely.
Laminate
Flooring Finishing Around Door Jam
The way I choose the first bit to put in is to figure out which board I can slide the farthest out of the way of the next one. You can see that I’ve cut the bottom of the door trim as before (only where it won’t show when the plinth and architrave are back on), and I’ve even cut away some plaster. also so I can move the board too far to the left. Again, the plaster on the bottom will be covered with the
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